As the cooler temperatures approach, it’s time to protect your lawn and sprinkler investment. Schedule your Irrigation System Winterization today! Qualified technicians will inspect and shutdown your system correctly to prevent damage from frozen irrigation lines during the winter. If freezing temps are in your forecast, the time to act is now! Winterizing your sprinkler system – removing water from the pipes, valves and sprinkler heads – is essential before freezing occurs. It’s the best way to protect your irrigation investment from potentially serious damage this winter.
Aerations and Over seeding
Now is the time of year when seed is most likely to germinate. Enhance the potential of your lawn with a core aeration and over seeding. This past season has damaged many lawns with prolonged heat and lack of rainfall. We have been waiting for rain to arrive and soften the ground to provide better results with the aeration process. Well the time is now! Rebuild your lawn today before you have to start from scratch. Call for a free quote and schedule your appointment today!
Fall Yard Cleanups
As the leaves begin to drop, protect your turf by mulching them back into the lawn or by removing them. It's great to have big shade trees in your yard. But, come fall, you can start to resent them. Those big trees drop leaves, and that means extra work, hassle, and lost time. However, there's good news. If the leaf cover on the lawn becomes too dense, or if your property has a large concentration of trees, let us clean it up for you.
Mow Your Leaves for a Healthier Lawn
One of the biggest chores in a lawn is tree leaf removal. People will do whatever it takes raking, blowing or vacuuming, to get those leaves off the lawn. Leaves should not be left to sit on top of your grass. Not only do the leaves block sun light getting to the grass, the area under fallen leaves stays damp and is a breeding ground for fungus that can damage the turf.
The major problem with leaf removal is the disposal. Some homeowners and municipalities compost leaves and yard waste which can later be used as an amendment to flower beds or spread out over lawns. Composting is a great use for this organic matter. Far too often though, raked leaves find there way into landfills, which is not an environmentally sound practice.
The best method for weed control is mowing the leaves with a mulching mower and letting them fall to the soil, right where they are. Studies at Purdue University show that mulching leaves into the turf can actually be beneficial to the soil and grass. Soils with mulched leaves showed increased microbial activity and better water infiltration. A Michigan State University study showed that when leaves were mulched into established turf the grass greened up quicker in the spring and also had fewer dandelions in the spring. It was also found that the mulched leaves will breakdown quicker if a fall fertilizer application is applied.
Mulching leaves also has some hidden benefits. The repeated mowing needed to mulch the leaves actually thickens the grass by encouraging it to grow laterally. If was often thought that mulching leaves into the yard would thin out your lawn but now it has been repeatedly proven that mulching leaves into the grass will build a healthier lawn in the next year. Save yourself time and increase your lawn’s health by keeping the rake in storage and mulching tree leaves with your mower.
See Great Results in the Spring
When spring arrives, you'll notice something. The leaf litter you mulched up in the fall will have disappeared. Fertilizing in late fall will also help in achieving a quick spring green-up. In the meantime you might want to consider a few other beneficial steps: - Cut your grass tall throughout the fall while your grass is still growing. When your grass goes dormant, you can mow it about ½ inch shorter to prevent matting and discourage diseases. - Leave those grass clippings on your lawn. Remember grass clippings are high in nutrients and will actually benefit your lawn, plus it's good for the environment because clippings don't end up in a landfill.
Mulching: a Better Use of Resources
Think green when you rake your leaves, it costs you. Your local taxes pay for trucks to sweep up your leaves or pick up your leaf bags, which often end up in landfills. If you burn leaves, you're just sending up clouds of carbon into the atmosphere. Mulching leaves simply recycles a natural resource, giving you richer soil that feeds your lawn.
The numbers found on fertilizer bags, for example, are 8-5-5. This is the percentage by weight of the Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) found in the fertilizer.
Nitrogen (N) is by far the most beneficial element for your lawn. It provides that rich, healthy, green appearance and aids in accelerated shoot growth. Nitrogen also escapes through the soil fairly quickly, so it is necessary to keep a good schedule for feeding your lawn. Beware of applying too much fertilizer because excess nitrogen can cause the lawn to "burn" and injure the grass.
Phosphorous (P) is necessary for shoot and root growth. It is usually already available in the soil, but if a soil test reflects a deficiency, then you should fertilize. Phosphorus comes in the form of phosphate in regular fertilizers, sometimes taking a while to reach the roots due to slow absorbtion into the soil.
Potassium (K) is important for overall plant health. Potassium also assists your lawn in withstanding heat, cold, drought, and wear.
There are two primary types of weed killers, pre-emergent herbicides and post-emergent selective herbicides. Knowing the differences between these two types of weed killers and how to correctly use them during the year will make a huge difference in how effective your weed killing pursuits will be during the growing season.
This type of weed killer is used early in the spring, before plants really begin to grow and the weather turns warm. A pre-emergent herbicide creates a protective barrier seal around seeds, which prevents the seed from germinating and growing. In essence, the seed is suffocated and dies.
Pre-emergent herbicides are used early in the growing season. They are best applied when the temperature is lower than 60 degrees and the soil is just beginning to warm.
Selective herbicides are formulated to only attack a specific attribute of a plant/weeds and will not kill or affect surrounding vegetation that do not have the particular characteristic. Selective herbicides are commonly used to control weeds in grass lawns and turf.
Fertilizer and Weed Control Applications
Early Spring (19-0-11) — Helps grass recover from the winter and a slow-release fertilizer to feed your lawn. Pre-emergent protection to prevents crab grass and weeds. Spot spray existing weeds, if needed.
Late Spring (21-0-12) — A second application of post-emergent fertilizer to cover a broad window of crabgrass/broadleaf and annual grassy weed control. Gives the grass extra nutrients and further controls weed growth. Slow release fertilizers to jump start the lawns growth and deepen the turf color and density.
Early Summer (21-3-21) — A balanced granular fertilizer to keep the lawn at its best and prevent turf damaging. Prepares the grass for intense summer heat. Spot spray weeds as needed .
Late Summer (32-0-10) — Broadleaf and annual grassy weed control for those pesky summer weeds and grasses. Summer lawn inspection for disease problems. Helps to control unwanted grubs and insects as well as promoting root growth. Spot spray weeds as needed .
Early Fall — A balanced slow release granular fertilizer to assist the lawn in bouncing back from the stress of the summer. Promotes root growth and continues to control grubs and insects. Spot spray weeds as needed.
Winterization (35-3-5) — A high nitrogen dormant feed fertilizer to prepare grass for the winter months by encouraging deep root growth and nutrient storage over the winter months. This application also provides long term results by providing an early spring green. Weed control is applied for winter weeds and broadleaf weeds as needed.